Aprenda  Gybe  com  Roger Jackson *

*Roger is a certified US Windsurfing instructor, with years of teaching experience and a legendary passion for the sport of windsurfing. He has a unique ability to give his students the most enjoyment from their equipment in the early learning stages of their windsurfing endeavors. It is his mission to get more of you who are curious about windsurfing out on the water and enjoy the freedom of the wind. Home for Roger is on the East Coast of the United States. During the sailing season, he does annual demo tours and clinics, working with local clubs, shops, recreation departments and US sailing programs.

Here's the sequence I teach and use.
1. Get as much speed as possible going into your jibe, As you will lose
some speed in virtually every jibe, the more speed you carry in the
higher the possibility that you will have enough to carve all the way around without falling off plane.

2. Remove your back foot from the strap and step across and forward.
Not sure if you need to go clear in front of the lee side front footstrap here, but try it. I'd think it would be just behind the front footstrap, but it's cold enough here I don't want to go out today to confirm that.
It depends somewhat on your weight as well.

3. Apply pressure with your foot to the rail to roll the board up on the inside rail. Don't "stomp on it" just add a steady and progressively heavier pressure (like applying the brakes in your car) to turn your board into the carve.

4. As your board starts to carve, bend your knees and ankles so that you end up "rolling" your weight to the inside of the turn and forward to
engage more of your boards rail.
The board will "bank"into a carve and around your turn. Once the rail is set, and the board is carving it's important ot keep a steady pressure on the rail. To tighten your carve up a little add a little more pressure.
Do not "reduce pressure" . This will cause the rail to "cork up" and the board will straighten out, spoiling your jibe.

You remove your back foot and step across whenever you are ready to
"initiate" your jibe. Where exactly to place your foot is, as I said, somewhat dependent on your weight. Try just behind the lee side front
footstrap first, and if that doesn't cause the board to engage the rail and
carve, then try a little more forward.
Things that will tell you when you've found the right spot are:
Board will bank easily into the carve without losing much of your precious speed. The nose of your board will stay at the same level, I.e.
it won't "pop up" (meaning you have not shifted your weight far enough
forward to really engage the rail) or it also won't drop (meaning you've shifted your weight too far forward and the rocker line in your board has
dropped so far that you are losing too much speed).
At first, you will probably need to "look" at where you place your foot, but
once you find the right spot, you will quickly commit the "step and press" to muscle memory and you will know when it feels right.
The secret to learning to carve jibe fairly rapidly is to simply "go for it" and do lots of jibes. Make small changes in foot position and how quickly and forcefully you apply the pressure to the rail. After each jibe
(or jibe attempt) try to determine what worked good , and what didn't.
Get back up to speed, and try again, making little changes to the parts you didn't think worked on the previous attempt.
Jibing well is about developing a "sense of timing", and that simply takes alot of practice.
Happy jibing, and let us know how things go.
Hope this helps,